The 10 rules of Savoyard cuisine If you are just on holiday or a seasoned -aire there are a couple of unspoken rules when you visit a Savoyard restaurant.
1. What to eat - Of your two food groups you have only one choice; Pierre chaud (that's a hot stone for you out of towners) AND a Raclette and maybe an side order of cheese fondue. Thats right, meat AND cheese it's that simple! All the other stuff on the menu is just there to fill up the space. You can eat pasta or steak anytime but you really get the choice to eat your way through a half wheel of cheese while cooking your own meat and dipping it in the fondue and covering it in more cheese. It's death by fromage in a good way. But don't worry about the cholesterol it's a little known fact that GÃnÃpi destroys the bad stuff instantly.
2. Have a good group - This almost deserves it's own article but here are the basic rules. The minimum size of the group is 6 although the actual number of people who turn up must exceed this. Seating around the table should be best described as 'snug'. Especially when all the equipment and accoutrements arrive at the table. If the table sits 6 comfortably then 8 people should be seated. People who enjoy personal space and don't like rubbing elbows with their neighbours should go elsewhere.
3. Women know your place!. Women are only allowed under certain circumstances. If they leave any trace of their femininity at home and join in with boys then that is ok. Certain spoken words like 'salad' and 'diet' are completely out of the question. Spectators sipping a glass of wine are only allowed in even more special circumstances (eg. if girl is hot).
4. Topic of conversation - Keep it simple. You are only allowed to talk about the food in front of you and as the night progresses, filth. Women should be able to converse on both levels without blushes.
5. Make sure you're hungry. No eating for at least 6 hours before the meal. In order to complete part 8 you need an empty stomach.
6. Drink the local red or (judgement call) rosÃ. I know it sounds like an old wives tale but unless you want to explode from a cheese overdose stick to the Vin de Savoie.
7. Endurance - Allow at least 3 hours for this gastronomic marathon. Chew your food and allow your cheese baby to properly gestate.
8. Finish all your food. That means the crispy burnt rind on a raclette too. Remember when you were young and you weren't allowed down from the table until you had finished all your greens. Well it's along the same lines.
9. GÃnÃpi. Consider this digestif your new dessert course. As real dessert is out of the question because you've already ODed on dairy products. After your meal it's customary to have a few shots (nehh bottles) of the local firewater. Depending on how local it is, it's recommended not to expose to a naked flame.
10. and finally - Split the bill evenly - no discussion - and leave a good tip.
For the best Savoyard meal in
Courchevel you could do a lot worse than go to the Refuge in 1850
